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The evolution of farang food in Thailand

Western dishes, or the so-called aharn farang, are an inseparable part of Thai lifestyles nowadays. But if we look back to about 60-70 years ago, aharn farang was re­garded as food fit for the higher classes and noblemen. Back then, most Thais were not familiar with Western table manners and the taste of Western-style dishes.

Dining
By Bangkok Post

Monday 9 December 2019, 02:00PM


Photo: Bangkok Post

Photo: Bangkok Post

The Kingdom was also a class soci­ety. Only the privileged were exposed to Western culture; for example, royal descendants who studied abroad. Upon their return, they had parties among them or receptions to welcome ac­quaintances and guests from overseas. Sure enough, Western dishes were in­cluded on the menu.

There were a few cookbooks featur­ing palace recipes that also featured acclaimed Western recipes of respec­tive royal families. Although cooking Western dishes required specific ingre­dients, seasonings and cooking utensils not available locally, the royal kitchens could manage to have them imported.

Many Thai cookbooks were published in 1969. Some included a selection of Western-style dishes. Many recipes looked appetising and not too complicat­ed to cook, but despite such simplicity, it was almost impossible for ordinary Thai families to cook from them because salmon, bacon and even milk were not widely available in Thailand in 1969. Access to Western ingredients increased for Bangkok families only when a small single-room supermarket named Food­land opened in 1972.

About 50 years ago, Thai people be­gan to regularly patronise restaurants offering Western food prepared locally by Hainanese chefs, who were taught by Western chefs in Hong Kong and Shang­hai. When Western diplomats relocated to Thailand, they brought in their well-trained Hainanese chefs as local chefs with Western cooking expertise that was scarce in the Kingdom.

The Hainanese chefs did not come alone. They came with family mem­bers who needed to earn a living. They opened restaurants specialising in Hainanese-style Western food all over Bangkok. Some opened in the Silom-Sathon business areas to serve foreigners and Thai workers with high incomes. There was a restaurant on Na Phra Lan Road where high-ranking officials from the nearby Finance Min­istry liked to go for meals.

Popular Hainanese-style Western dishes included salad neua san (beef sirloin salad), yellow curry chicken, barbecue pork ribs and stew lin (ox tongue stew). These restaurants were in business for a long time until new res­taurants arrived and served authentic Western dishes. The Hainanese-style Western restaurants finally went out of business about a decade ago.

When Western ingredients became more widely available and affordable, Thai people began to cook Western dishes by themselves. Most Thais were accustomed to Italian ingredients such as pasta. There was a well-known Ital­ian restaurant called Passano on Soi Langsuan before being relocated to Soi Tonson in the Phloenchit area of Bang­kok. The famous Pan Pan restaurant was also in Soi Langsuan. Pepperoni in the Narai Hotel was acclaimed for its delicious pizza. Now Thai people are more familiar with pizza chains such as Pizza Hut and the Pizza Company.

The first American food to become popular in Thailand was the humble hot dog. The first store to sell the back­yard barbecue favourite was a small shop near the Foodland supermarket. The hamburger came later.

Today, aharn farang is a favourite of Thai people. There are a wide variety of restaurants serving different kinds of food at different prices and available everywhere to meet the demands of cus­tomers at all levels of society.

– Suthon Sukphisit

Read the original story here.

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