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Sampling Phuket's great seafood

PHUKET: There’s something very civilised – very high-class Mediterranean – about sitting down to dine at a long table with a load of people, some of whom you know and some you don’t.

By Alasdair Forbes

Monday 10 December 2012, 02:54PM

Conversation flows more easily, and gets louder and more amusing as time goes by. No one feels self-conscious about the occasional burp. Get up, walk to another part of the table to drop in on another conversation. Dinner is no longer just dinner. It’s an extended family event.

It’s even better, of course, if dinner is alfresco, right next to a tropical beach with balmy air and a light breezes.

This is what Trisara has created with its new restaurant, named – perhaps not a lot of imagination here but certainly straightforward – Seafood.

To celebrate the completion of the restaurant, Trisara last week held a special seven-course dinner for some 20 diners.

The food, as one would expect from Trisara’s all-Thai kitchen crew, was superb.

To start, Tuna tartare spiced up with ginger, followed by anchovies with bell pepper, aubergines and shallots.

On then to vitello tonnato – veal and tuna with capers, frisée, onion, quinoa and tomato; a classic bouillabaisse; and then red mullet with radish, tomato, onion, zucchini and cockles.

Almost there. The main event: Wagyu sirloin from Australia with bulgur, spring onion, cucumber and mushroom. And finally, for those who had just a little room left, wild mille-feuille – filo pastry, vanilla cream, strawberries, raspberries and redcurrants.

By the end of the evening everyone was a couple of kilos heavier and, thanks to the magic worked by Spanish grape alchemists Telmo Rodriguez (all organic and biodynamic) and Jean Guillaume Prats of Château Cos d’Estournel, everyone was best friends with everyone else.

This is a fine way to dine. And the good news is that if Phuket’s weather decides to turn nasty, the whole feast can swiftly become moveable – the restaurant also has a capacious indoor section.

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